Starting your historical sewing journey can feel overwhelming, especially when faced with endless tool recommendations. As someone who has been creating historical garments for years, I've learned that you don't need every gadget on the market – but having the right essential tools makes all the the difference between frustration and success.
Whether you're preparing for your first Victorian ball gown, or planning a simple Edwardian blouse, this guide will help you build a solid foundation of tools without costing a fortune. I'll share the must-have items I use daily, plus a few specialized tools that are worth the investment for historical accuracy.
The Absolute Essentials
Quality Scissors - Your Most Important Investment
Let's start with the tool that will make or break your sewing experience: scissors. You don't need to spend a fortune on the most expensive brand, but investing in good-quality scissors that cut cleanly is essential.
Here's what you need in your scissor collection:
Some of my favourite scissors, including my most expensive one. From left: embroidery scissors, thread cutter, standard scissors, heavy fabric scissors, light fabric scissors.
Fabric Scissors (8-10 inches): Your main workhorses for cutting fabric. Whether you choose a premium brand or a moderately-priced option, the key is sharp, clean cuts. If you sew a lot, buy one for each fabric weight (light, standard, heavy weight), otherwise one standard fabric scissor should be enough. Never, ever use these on paper – paper will dull the blades instantly and ruin your investment.
Paper Scissors: Keep a separate pair exclusively for cutting paper patterns and templates. This will protect your fabric scissors and ensure clean pattern cutting.
Small Detail Scissors (3-5 inches): These are invaluable for historical sewing. Use them for intricate work like clipping curves, trimming seam allowances in tight spaces, hand-sewing details, and any embroidery work that historical garments often feature.
Specialized Historical Sewing Tools
Awl
An awl is an indispensable tool for historical sewing, especially when working with period-accurate techniques.
My awls, including two vintage portable ones in bone.
Use it for your Hand-sewn eyelets: Essential for creating clean, precise holes before stitching because it does not cut the fibers like an eyelets cutter would. Pair it with embroidery silk thread, linen or cotton thread for authentic results. And did you know it, you may use your awl even to rip out an handstitched thread!
Eyelet Press (for corset makers)
If you're planning to make corsets, a small eyelet press is worth the investment. While hand-sewn eyelets are period-accurate for bodices and belts, undergarment corsets starting from the 1830s had steel eyelets. You may use those also for bodices if you create them for theatrical modern purposes, but absolutely not for reenactment and period accurate dresses! :)
An eyelet press (photo taken online), you may find this model here.
Measuring and Marking Tools
Clear Quilting Ruler
This is a modern tool, but in my experience transparent rectangular quilting rulers with grid markings are incredibly useful for historical sewing (and for sewing in general):
- Drawing straight lines on fabric with precision (for example for cartridge pleating or other purposes)
- Adding seam allowances around pattern pieces
- Creating belts or sashes by hand-drawing perfect rectangles/strips
- Measuring and marking parallel lines for pleats or tucks
The transparency lets you see your fabric underneath, and the grid markings ensure accuracy. Found mine here.
Tracing Paper and Transfer Paper
I use these two papers in different ways depending on the project:
- Coloured Transfer paper with tracing wheel: Perfect for transferring decorative elements and construction lines directly onto fabric using a tracing wheel.
- Transparent tracing paper: I trace the design onto the paper with pencil, then place it on the fabric and stitch directly through the paper. Finally, I carefully tear away the paper by hand. This technique is invaluable when you can't leave marks on the fabric and can't wet it either (otherwise I use water-soluble stabilizer).
Wax-Based Marking Chalk
Wax-based erasable chalk is my preferred marking tool because it's practical and durable - when it falls, it won't break like traditional chalk. The wax formula marks clearly on fabric and removes easily, making it perfect for marking construction lines, darts, and fitting adjustments on historical garments.
Thread, Needles & Hand Sewing Essentials
Quality Thread
Invest in good-quality thread that won't break or fray during sewing. For historical accuracy, cotton and linen threads are ideal for most period garments.
Silk thread deserves special mention - it's essential for hand-sewn buttonholes, embroideries and beautiful eyelets.
Also, you can treat the thread with beeswax - it is very useful to prevent the thread from fraying: simply pull the thread over the wax to coat it.
Thimble - A Hand Sewer's Best Friend
If you plan to do any hand sewing (and historical garments often requires it), a well-fitting thimble is absolutely essential for that.
It takes a bit of time to learn to use it, but you won't regret it!
It protects your finger and allows you to push the needle through multiple layers of fabric with confidence. Take time to find one that fits properly - it should be snug but not tight.
Pressing Tools - The Unsung Heroes
Tailor's Ham
A tailor's ham is invaluable for pressing curved seams and shaping historical garments.
An oval - sligtly flat on top - tailor ham, seen from above.
Use it for:
- Pressing bust darts and waist shaping
- Curved seams in fitted bodices and essential in corsetry
- Rollpinning, the historical technique that irons multiple layers of fabric as one (I will do a blog post later specifically about it)
- Sleeve caps and armhole curves
- Any three-dimensional shaping that a flat ironing board can't handle
Sleeve Board
Essential for pressing sleeves without creating unwanted creases. Historical garments often have fitted sleeves that require careful pressing to maintain their shape.
Where to Find These Tools
Here are some reliable sources for quality sewing tools (I am NOT a paid affiliate for any of this shops, I only earn a small discount for aliexpress links):
Merchant and Mills: Online shop specialized in premium scissors (and beyond)
Prym Transfer paper for fabrics.
You may find sewing and collectible vintage thimbles on Ebay too
- Local fabric stores often carry basic essentials
- Online specialty retailers for historical sewing supplies
- Antique shops sometimes have vintage tools that work beautifully
Getting Started: Build Your Toolkit Gradually
Remember, you don't need to buy everything at once. Start with the absolute essentials - good fabric scissors, basic needles and thread, a thimble, and a clear ruler. As you work on more projects, you'll naturally discover which specialized tools would make your sewing easier.
A basic starter kit might cost around $50-100, while building a complete historical sewing toolkit could range from $200-400 depending on your choices. The key is investing in quality for the tools you'll use most often.
Most importantly, the best tools in the world won't replace practice and patience. Start with simpler projects to get comfortable with your tools, then gradually tackle more complex historical garments as your skills and toolkit grow.
Ready to put these tools to work? Browse my collection of historically patterns, complete with detailed tutorials that will guide you through using these techniques step by step.
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Interessantissimo!