Today I thought of talking about strange and peculiar materials used in fashion and jewelry during the last centuries. The idea came to me because when we visit fashion museums, I think we often focus on the amazing costumes and forget to pay attention to the small details - including features that sometimes we don't use anymore in favour of synthetic alternatives.
Let's start.
Casein: The Milk Plastic Revolution
One of the most surprising materials in historical fashion is casein – a plastic made from milk protein, also called Galalith. The latter name comes from Ancient Greek and means "milk stone". Curiously, this material is still produced today (but in very small quantities because it cannot be molded like modern plastics) and is very similar to ivory in appearance.
Developed in the 1890s, casein became the Victorian era material of choice for buttons, buckles, and decorative elements.
Art Nouveau Galalith pendant, sold at Christies here.
What made casein special:
- Incredibly durable and long-lasting
- Could be dyed in vibrant colors
- Took fine detail beautifully
- More affordable than natural materials like horn or ivory
Casein buttons were particularly prized because they could mimic expensive materials while being much more accessible to the growing middle class. Many "tortoiseshell" or "horn" buttons from this era are actually casein!
A comb dated 1920s from Rijksmuseum.
Beetle Wings: Nature's Original Sequins
Long before plastic sequins, Victorian seamstresses discovered that beetle wings created the most incredible iridescent effects. The use of beetle wings as decoration wasn't a Victorian invention - it had been practiced for centuries in Asian cultures, especially Thailand, where artisans applied these iridescent pieces to artwork, fabrics, and ornaments.
Those jewelry-like small wings were mostly cut and sewn onto evening gowns and accessories in the victorian era and are still found in many extant pieces in museums today. They were often paired with golden threads in embroidery work.
A 1860s dress covered in beetlewings from the West Highland Museum. Click for further infos.
I have many beetlewings in my studio, I'm planning a future project with them and I am looking for the spark of inspiration.
Metal Sequins and the Gelatin Revolution
Not everyone knows it, but sequins have a very long history dating back to ancient times!
Traces of similar decorations made from nautilus shells have been found in Indonesia (12,000 years ago). Later we can find gold round shaped decorations inside the tomb of Tutankhamun. The discovery of his tomb in 1922, with its incredible treasures, sparked a long lasting fascination with ancient Egyptian aesthetics that heavily influenced 1920s flapper fashion - including the popularity of sequined garments.
Evening Dress with sequins, 1920. Philamuseum.
According to some sources, their name comes from the Arabic "sikka" - which means coin. Others think that the word comes from the italian coin "zecchino" (1284 circa). That is because they were usually made of gold and with a round or teardrop shape. Their usage signified wealth.
- Want to see some tear shaped spangles? You can find a link in the bibliography on bottom. -
Interestingly, in the 1480s Leonardo da Vinci seemingly even sketched a machine to produce these tiny disks!
Among famous historical personalities, sequins - also called "spangles" and "oylets" - were documented in Henry VII's (1485) and Elizabeth of York's (1502) wardrobes through the Tudor Era. During the 17th and 18th centuries, sequins were made as thin metal disks throughout Europe and used for both male and female clothing of the upper classes.
Rachel Ruvigny, Countess of Southampton (1603–1640) wearing a red dress with spangles. The Portland Collection
Red Mantua front detail with sequins, 1740s. From Victoria and Albert museum, more photos here.
These tiny decorations gained increasing popularity during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. The interesting thing is that in the 1930s, European industries started to produce them in a new material: electroplated gelatin, a nice substitute for the metal counterpart. Lighter and less expensive, this material however melted in hot weather or water, resulting in messy disasters if you were unlucky!
Thankfully, the fashion industry soon found a solution: by the mid-20th century, durable plastic sequins had been developed, giving us the heat-resistant and waterproof versions we rely on today.
Next week, we'll explore even more surprising materials - from horsehair canvas that shaped Victorian silhouettes to the dark elegance of mourning jewelry.
Stay tuned for Part 2!
Bibliography for Further Study:
- Casein (also called Galalith) definition and history from Wikipedia
- Video and information for further study of a victorian dress covered in Beetlewings from West Highland Museum
- Big Spangles at Historical JamesStowe
- https://philamuseum.org/
- Sequin vs Spangles vs Paillettes terminology from TheDreamstress