Whether you're working on historical garments or modern pieces, a well-executed placket opening is the mark of professional construction.
So I've decided to share one of my step-by-step methods... It is a simple process and it is worth the time. So, Let's begin!
What is a Placket Opening?
Unlike a simple seam opening, a placket has overlapping fabric pieces that prevent gaping and provide a secure closure. It was very used during Victorian era on side seam openings for example on skirts, but you may use it for trousers or center back too. It can be made with a single strip of fabric, or with two rectangles.
Let's Start
1. Mark Your Opening and Prepare the Placket Opening
Determine the length of your opening (usually 10-15cm for skirts). Mark this on your garment with a line, then cut the slit. You may even insert the slit inside a seam, just leave open the slit area and close the other part.
For the placket I usually use a singular strip of fabric. Cut a rectangle tall double the slit length and wide around 10 cm.
Apply if you prefer a lightweight interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric. This will give more stability, but it is not historically necessarily needed.
2. Attach the placket
Open the slit flat.
Then put the placket strip over the cut (right side of fabric of placket towards wrong side/lining). Sew the two together at around 0,4 mm from the fabrics edge.
Press the placket piece towards the seam allowance. Fold the rectangle in half horizontally (remember to take into account also around 1-2 cm of seam allowance) and press again.
4. Finish the Edges
Now you will have the placket directed towards the exterior side of the skirt/dress. Fold under the seam allowance of the placket, iron flat and stitch at around 1 mm from the edge.
I usually use a zip foot to sew at 1-2 mm near the edge.
5. Add Closure
Turn one side of the placket towars the wrong side/lining of the garment. Stitch on the waist over it to secure the placket. Install your chosen closure (hook and eye or snaps) all over the placket. Add waistband and closure on it too.
Ready to put this technique to work? Try it on a simple skirt first, then work your way up to more complex garments. You'll be amazed at the difference a proper placket makes!