Hello to everyone!
I'm publishing this Friday post with a two-day delay, but I couldn't wait to share this special project with you.
Several months ago, I started working on an Edwardian dress inspired by a stunning 1912 costume by the legendary couturier Lucile, housed in the Victoria and Albert Museum.
Life got in the way (as it often does!), and I had to set it aside for other projects. But recently, I finally found the time to complete it, and I love the result.
The Inspiration: Lucile's Work and the Titanic green costume
For those who follow my TikTok videos, you'll know I've already talked there about Lucile's incredible work - and there's definitely more blog content about her coming soon here! This particular piece caught my eye with its elegant silhouette.
It is similar in some ways in cut to the green dress worn by Rose in Titanic (though of course not identical).
The costume from Titanic movie (1997), costume designer Deborah Lynn Scott. Curiosities about her work on Titanic here.
Rose with the green costume.
Speaking of which, a few years ago I actually created a reproduction of that famous green Titanic dress for a client with some customizations- it was such a rewarding project! You can see a pair of photos of my reproduction below.
Back to my purple project: I didn't want to recreate it exactly - instead, I chose to personalize it according to my own taste for decorative details and simplify the sash decoration.
Traditionally, this style would probably consist of two main pieces: a structured underdress with a bodice (that I boned, in purple taffeta), and an overdress ( I chose plum silk chiffon) with kimono sleeves, in this case all held together by a draped blue silk taffeta sash with tassels.
The dress bodice seen from the inside while handsewing the top edge.
Me trying on the base.
The interior lining and bones.
My Personal Approach
I decided to take a different route and structure this as a one-piece garment. I draped the chiffon skirt and kimono bodice directly over the purple taffeta base, joining them with hand-sewn catch stitches. This was a personal design choice that creates a beautiful unified silhouette (but on the other hand it makes the dress easier to tear and when you drape it you must take attention to make the bodice lengths match perfectly).
Draping the overskirt on the base.
Most of this dress was sewn by hand: from the hems of both skirts to the decorative draping details on the gathered taffeta underbodice. There's something deeply satisfying about the slow, meditative process of hand sewing that machine work just can't replicate.
The Special Details
One of my favorite elements is the crescent moon decoration I created for the neckline. Starting with a gray moiré base, I covered it with this beautiful silver metallic lace featuring floral motifs. I carefully cut out individual flowers and arranged them symmetrically on the crescent shape. After machine-stitching them to the moiré, I hand-sewed the entire piece to the purple taffeta base with invisible stitches.
The sash was also hand-draped and then lined. I'll admit to using aida fabric as internal reinforcement - not historically accurate, I know! I didn't have tarlatan or period-appropriate canvas on hand, but aida works wonderfully and maintains a realistic appearance while providing the structure needed. I was unsure if to put it, therefore I added it at the end with handstitches.
The dress features a side closure for the bottom, plus a hidden central closure for the overdress portion (hand-sewn, naturally).
I had to wear the dress yesterday for a photoshoot, so for now I made the sash bottom decoration much simpler with what I had on hand, as you can see - but who knows, maybe I can make it more complex in the near future when I find the materials I need.
What's Next?
Curious about the final result?
This beauty will soon be available as a pattern in standard sizes, complete with tutorial in both English and Italian! While I chose to connect the underdress and overdress as one piece, you can create them separately if you prefer - this will actually offer more versatility, as you could pair the underdress with different overdresses or accessories.
What do you think of this personalized approach to historical fashion? I love how we can honor the original designers like Lucile while adding our own creative touch!
Photoshoot photos coming soon - I can't wait to share them with you!
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