Hi! I have decided to post on the blog regularly, but as I am not really a blog-a-holic I think you will see around 2-3 posts per month here. More posts may come in the Pattern Revision Blog section. 🦋
Sooo, let's talk about Victorian swimwear!
But first, overall what shape did Victorian swimwear costumes have?
Well, they were usually made of two parts: a short, or long sleeved sort of tunic (the sleeves and bottom lenghts depended on the style and on the decade) and a pair of matching shorts to put under it, or a jumpsuit style dress with a matching skirt to put over it. These designs allowed for comfort and flexibility during water activities, while maintaining modesty. Sometimes little weights were added to the hem of the skirt to not let it float around while in the water. They could incorporate decorative elements that evoked maritime themes, including anchors, stylized waves, sailor-style collars, and various other nautical embellishments.
Fabrics used and colours.
Traditionally, bathing dresses were crafted from wool fabrics such as flannel or serge, or from cotton. Some garments were made from oiled silk or oilskin cotton for added water resistance. Wool was particularly favored because it allowed for better movement both in the water and immediately after exiting it, as this natural fiber does not readily absorb liquids.
The accompanying pants often featured elastic bands—yes, elastics did exist according to an 1867 extract from "Godey's Lady's Book"—though they were neither manufactured nor used in the fashion industry in the same ways and as extensively as they are today (for example, elastics were sporadically employed in specialized shoe construction, particular belt styles, and certain men's clothing items, though their limited and experimental use in these applications would make for a fascinating topic in an upcoming blog post).
By the late Victorian era, fashion preferences began to evolve. Pearson's Magazine noted in June 1901 that brilliantine had become one of the most recommended fabrics for bathing costumes. This lightweight material was praised for shrinking less than alternatives like serge and for not clinging to the body as silk tends to do.
Silk itself was also frequently mentioned in various Victorian fashion publications, though flannel maintained its position as the most popular choice for bathing attire throughout the era.
And what about colours? Well, the color palette for Victorian swimwear was far more diverse than commonly believed, extending much beyond the stereotypical dark tones. While navy blue dominated as the most practical and respectable choice, the era embraced a surprisingly varied spectrum of shades. Deep burgundy, rich red, and forest green were popular staples, alongside classic black - frequently selected for its slimming properties and ability to conceal the figure. Lighter shades also found their place at the seaside: white and cream offered fresh, clean alternatives, while soft pink and lilac provided delicate feminine options. Practical earth tones like brown and taupe were favored for their stain-hiding properties, while gray presented a sophisticated neutral choice.
Pattern enthusiasts weren't forgotten either - striped designs were particularly fashionable, often featuring navy and white or red and white combinations. Tartan and check patterns brought a touch of Scottish influence to beachwear... While more adventurous bathers might choose aqua or powder blue for a hint of seaside-inspired color, creating a palette that was both more colorful and varied than modern assumptions about Victorian fashion would suggest.
Swimsuits in navy blue and in red stripes from Kyouto Costume Institute.
The Evolution of Victorian Bathing Costumes.
The bathing costume as a tunic-style garment, similar to a chemise or shift, has a long history dating back to the 17th and 18th centuries. However, the swimming dress as a two-piece ensemble emerged around the mid-19th century.
During this period, women's swimwear prioritized modesty over style. By the 1840s, bathing costumes remained exceptionally long and cumbersome. Throughout the 1850s and 1860s, swimwear particularly reflected the fashion trends of the decade, featuring very full skirts (though obviously without the crinoline for practical reasons). The accompanying pants were often gathered at the ankle, creating a slightly ballooned silhouette.
1864 bathing attires.
Over the following decades, the design gradually evolved to become more practical and stylish. Hemlines shortened slightly, silhouettes became more fitted, and necklines began to drop modestly. However, these changes were minimal compared to today's standards, as the overall design remained quite conservative.
By the 1870s and 1880s, bathing dresses featured either long or short sleeves, typically paired with very long, fitted pantaloons that still reached the ankle in most cases. As expected, bustle cages could not be worn underneath these garments for obvious practical reasons.
A pair of 1880s bathing costumes.
During the 1890s and early 1900s, designs began to shorten more significantly, often accompanied by colorful stockings and matching bathing shoes. While the silhouette still bore little resemblance to today's swimsuits—let alone modern bikinis—they began to look more similar to contemporary everyday dresses.
My Current Projects
This month's (and partly next month's) New Sewing Pattern projects focus on Victorian Bathing Costumes. I've selected two bathing dresses and one seaside/yacht ensemble to recreate.
I might actually wear these bathing costumes as modern house dresses, since their style feels more similar to contemporary casual fashion to me! 🩵
Here are the plates I am using as reference for the new Patterns:
The bathing attires that I have chosen are the red one and the blue one, but I might remake also the longer one in black oilskin cotton 💙
As for the seaside yatch attire I think I will make the blue one, but I might think also of making the other two, or a mix among the three styles.
For furthere readings:
-The Art of Dressing Well. A Complete Guide to Economy, Style and Propriety of Costume ...
(SHEILDS FROST )
- Victorian Bathing and Bathing Suits: The Culture of the Two-Piece Bathing Dress from 1837 – 1901 (DEB SALISBURY).
- Bathing Fashion Reflects Society's Rules
- My Pinterest collection on antique bathing costumes dated 1890-1910